Day 8 -- June 16, 2001

Return From the Boundary Waters

A Cool and Clear Morning

I wake up about 4:30 but lay in bed until about 5. It was sprinkling off and on all night. Now, it is cool but too early to tell, from inside the tent, whether it's cloudy or clear outside. It is windy though. I discover a clear blue sky overhead as I emerge from the tent. Will it stay clear? The temperture's a chilly, 51 degrees.

I eat breakfast, cleanup, pack up, and hit the water at about 7:30. I decide to make one last visit to the creek before heading home. It's a nice day and I have all day so a little exploration is called for. I hope I can find a moose up the creek this morning but, it's going to be difficult -- there's a stiff wind blowing from behind me and the sun is shining full force on me. If there is a moose up this creek, he'll be able to smell me and see me a long time before I get to him. Its worth a try anyway.

End of the magic

Going up the creek is easy with the wind at my back -- it's just very hard to see where I'm going with the sun in my eyes! No, NO, I'm not complaining!!!! Just stating a fact ;). As I paddle, I'm trying feverishly almost, to store all the sights, all the sounds, all the smells in my memory. I may have to leave the Boundary Waters -- even if reluctantly -- but maybe, just maybe, I can carry some of the Boundary Waters back with me. The tall, majestic pines reflecting in the lilly pad covered water, the sound of the song birds and the slap of the beaver's tail, the smell of the spruce and that special scent I noticed before on this creek. I'm trying to hold onto all of them, grab hold of them, and take them with me. I only go partway down the creek -- to the wide muskeg with its rocky guardian and turn reluctantly and paddle back into the wind. It's much tougher paddling downstream than it was up. I reach the mouth of the creek and paddle across the lake to the portage that will take me to Rifle. After the sounds I heard last night, I'm sure I'll see someone on Rifle. If so, they'll be the first since I left those people fishing on Lake Four two days ago. Saying farewell to Bridge Lake is the same as saying farewell to my solitude. It's the beginning of the end of my trip.

The portage to Rifle Lake is the longest of my trip but far from the toughest. There are a couple of good climbs since Rifle is quite a bit higher in elevation but, the path is good and it is dry. There are many lady slippers and huckleberries in bloom along the trail. I start the portage at about 8:30. I double portage it and arrive at Rifle Lake at about 9:00. I'm pleasantly surprised to find the campsite empty. I don't know where the wood chopping noises were coming from but it doesn't appear like it was here. I'm going to get a little longer stretch of solitude after all! I go back for my other load and complete the portage at about quarter to 10.

Winds on Rifle Lake

Rifle is a small, but very pretty lake. From the map, one wonders why it wasn't named Horseshoe, it definitely has the right shape. I have a little trouble launching with the wind funneling right up the western most arm of the lake. I decide to explore the eastern arm before continuing on my journey. I don't find anything special there but have a pleasant and quiet paddle. Heading into the west arm, and the wind, is a different story! I have to paddle with all my might to make any headway. A gust hits me part way along and turns my boat around 180 degrees. It's a tribute to the Quetico 16 that I don't capsize in the process. Instead, I paddle to some shelter and rest up for another attempt. This time, I succeed and find my way to the portage at the far end of the lake at about 10:30. The landing is especially pretty with moss covered logs and a few, ready to bloom, wild irisis at the water's edge.

More Winds and Excitement

This portage seems longer than the 65 rods shown on the map. It seems at least as long as the Hudson to Insula portage and more rugged. I've been on more rugged ones though. I complete my double portage at about 11 and push out into Lake Two and the wind. I attempt to head west and hug the north shore to stay somewhat sheltered but the winds have other ideas. As I struggle to keep my bow pointed into the wind, the wind keeps trying to turn me. It's a harrowing journey and the end result is that I travel more or less sideways, southward across the lake. At least this time, I'm able to keep the wind from turning me around. I land on a small island just north of what I call the "duck head" on Lake Two -- a long narrow point that reminds me, obviously, of a duck's bill. It's about 11:30 so I decide to stop and have some lunch and figure out how I'm going to make my way out. The campsite on the "duck head" as well as several others, are occupied, although, due to the wind, there aren't a lot of canoes out on the lake.

It suddenly hits me -- with my pack behind me, my bow is lighter than my stern creating a windvane effect. duh! Why didn't I think of that before? Before heading out again, I put the pack just in front of me. I have to straddle it with my legs but now, I should be using the wind to my advantage -- for steering anyway. I ease off the island and out to the channel to the south. I still have to work like crazy to make any headway but at least the boat stays heading into the wind. I can now use all my energy to move forward instead of using 75% just to stay pointed in the right direction.

It's still tough going though and it takes me until after 12 to get to the big island. I rest up, and then push on, south of the island toward the shore. My plan from there is to head northward in the lee of the shore. It's tough getting through the channel the way the wind is funneling through it but I finally prevail, arriving at the portage at about 1:00. I have the portage to myself and make it across quickly. The little pond between the portages is not difficult to cross and I soon reach the 2nd one. There are people at this portage and they have put their canoes in the water or right at the landing before going back for more gear, leaving very little room for me to land. But, I do find a gap, unload the canoe and stash everything out of the way. I take my canoe across the portage first. When I get to the Lake One end, the wind almost whips the canoe out of my hands. It does turn me sideways and there's no way I can turn it back so I finally lower it right where I stand. I roll it upside down and carefully nestle it in some bushes so, hopefully, it won't blow away while I get the rest of my gear.

There's yet another party landing from Lake One when I arrive back. They ask me how tough the portage is and I reply that it's not tough at all. Then I take another look at the canoe. It's loaded from bow thwart to stern thwart, gunnel to gunnel with stuff, most of it loose. The portage may not be all that difficult but they're going to be there a long time!

Welcome Back to Civilization

I have a little trouble pushing off right into the wind and then struggle across first to the little island across from the portage, then the peninsula. After this I have to head north, across the wind. I'm not sure how this is going to work but push on. Soon, I find that if I keep the bow pointed about 30 degrees north of the wind, the wind actually pushes me sideways in a northerly direction. All I have to do is expend the effort to keep the boat pointed that way and the wind is doing the rest! I fly northward across Lake One and soon reach the channel. I have to check and recheck my map since it doesn't seem possible that I covered all that distance so quickly. But, I did! At this point, I head northeast so the wind is partly behind me but also isn't as strong since the west shore is close by. There's another party with 3 canoes up ahead, looking like they're heading out too. But, when they reach the point at the beginning of the narrower channel, they go to the right of it instead of left. Did they mean to do that? I continue on up the channel, past Kiwishiwi Lodge and to the landing without any further trouble. I arrive at the landing at about 3:30 and there's a Boy Scout troop also exiting. They have their car pulled up by the landing with all doors open and the radio blaring. What a grating welcome back to civilization!

I soon have the boat out of the water and carefully stowed at the side of the landing for the outfitter to pick up later, pack up the car and am on the road to the Red Rock Wilderness Store. My first solo canoe trip has ended. And, what a fantastic trip it was!